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Headlight
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Scott321
Re: Headlight
I'm guessing you're talking about the '07 450exc listed in your signature? The lever freeplay adjusters on my '05 have given me a couple fits before. Just recently I thought there was something wrong with my clutch when I discovered the little adjuster had backed out. Same thing on the front brake a while back too. A couple clicks on that little knob makes a big difference. There isn't really anything else to go wrong on that front brake unless you have a bad piston seal in the master cylinder which is unlikely. It would probably leak fluid if that was the case.
Re: Headlight
Hmmmm... I'll check that - but since the factory guys had it pumped up, why would it get soft again?
I hate front brakes - one more reason to switch to flat track
I hate front brakes - one more reason to switch to flat track
Ken
Die young as late as possible, remember who you were before the world told you how it should be. -- Barry Morris
Die young as late as possible, remember who you were before the world told you how it should be. -- Barry Morris
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Roadracer_Al
Re: Headlight
Ken, on another list, I came across a freeeeeekin' brilliant system for bleeding brakes.
Get a cheap-ass (i.e. more or less disposable) garden sprayer. Take the nozzle apart, and hose-clamp a section of rubber hose to it --- the hose needs to be of a size which will fit on the brake nipple. Preferably clear, so you won't inadvertently blow bubbles into the brake system if you run the sprayer low on fluid.
Pour a pint or two of brake fluid into the sprayer and pump it up.
Put your brake nipple wrench on the brake nipple, put the hose on the nipple, and use the hose clamp to affix the hose.
Now, take the cap off the reservoir, and use a cheap-ass (again, basically disposable) turkey baster to keep the level low.
Now, open the brake bleed nipple, and pull the trigger on the sprayer. It helps to have another person to remove the brake fluid -- it apparently the level rises pretty fast.
When the fluid runs clear for a good long time, close the nipple, and disassemble the rig. Someone suggested wrapping the nipple threads with teflon tape, as they absolutely will drool fluid under pressure.
I can see how this system will bleed brakes that can't be bleed otherwise due to the continuous, strong flow of fluid, flowing UPWARD (i.e. the direction bubbles naturally want to go) vs. manually pumping the brakes.
This will not work with SpeedBleeders, which are another really good product, but require manual brake pumping.
Get a cheap-ass (i.e. more or less disposable) garden sprayer. Take the nozzle apart, and hose-clamp a section of rubber hose to it --- the hose needs to be of a size which will fit on the brake nipple. Preferably clear, so you won't inadvertently blow bubbles into the brake system if you run the sprayer low on fluid.
Pour a pint or two of brake fluid into the sprayer and pump it up.
Put your brake nipple wrench on the brake nipple, put the hose on the nipple, and use the hose clamp to affix the hose.
Now, take the cap off the reservoir, and use a cheap-ass (again, basically disposable) turkey baster to keep the level low.
Now, open the brake bleed nipple, and pull the trigger on the sprayer. It helps to have another person to remove the brake fluid -- it apparently the level rises pretty fast.
When the fluid runs clear for a good long time, close the nipple, and disassemble the rig. Someone suggested wrapping the nipple threads with teflon tape, as they absolutely will drool fluid under pressure.
I can see how this system will bleed brakes that can't be bleed otherwise due to the continuous, strong flow of fluid, flowing UPWARD (i.e. the direction bubbles naturally want to go) vs. manually pumping the brakes.
This will not work with SpeedBleeders, which are another really good product, but require manual brake pumping.
Re: Headlight
believe it or not, the factory KTM guys did something similar but they used a 30cc syringe to push the fluid.Roadracer_Al wrote:Ken, on another list, I came across a freeeeeekin' brilliant system for bleeding brakes.
Get a cheap-ass (i.e. more or less disposable) garden sprayer. Take the nozzle apart, and hose-clamp a section of rubber hose to it --- the hose needs to be of a size which will fit on the brake nipple. Preferably clear, so you won't inadvertently blow bubbles into the brake system if you run the sprayer low on fluid.
Pour a pint or two of brake fluid into the sprayer and pump it up.
Put your brake nipple wrench on the brake nipple, put the hose on the nipple, and use the hose clamp to affix the hose.
Now, take the cap off the reservoir, and use a cheap-ass (again, basically disposable) turkey baster to keep the level low.
Now, open the brake bleed nipple, and pull the trigger on the sprayer. It helps to have another person to remove the brake fluid -- it apparently the level rises pretty fast.
When the fluid runs clear for a good long time, close the nipple, and disassemble the rig. Someone suggested wrapping the nipple threads with teflon tape, as they absolutely will drool fluid under pressure.
I can see how this system will bleed brakes that can't be bleed otherwise due to the continuous, strong flow of fluid, flowing UPWARD (i.e. the direction bubbles naturally want to go) vs. manually pumping the brakes.
This will not work with SpeedBleeders, which are another really good product, but require manual brake pumping.
but I'm thinking the threads need to be wrapped in tape or I need to get speed bleeders.
Ken
Die young as late as possible, remember who you were before the world told you how it should be. -- Barry Morris
Die young as late as possible, remember who you were before the world told you how it should be. -- Barry Morris
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Roadracer_Al
Re: Headlight
I'm thinking that the big flow values will 'scrub out' any difficult bubbles.
BTW, have you rebuilt this brake system yet?
Maybe this is a sign from above that you really need a set of Berringer brakes on that beeyatch. Then you can sell me your old bits for my Rotax.
BTW, have you rebuilt this brake system yet?
Maybe this is a sign from above that you really need a set of Berringer brakes on that beeyatch. Then you can sell me your old bits for my Rotax.
Re: Headlight
slick looking brakes but Motard oriented - seems overkillRoadracer_Al wrote:I'm thinking that the big flow values will 'scrub out' any difficult bubbles.
BTW, have you rebuilt this brake system yet?
Maybe this is a sign from above that you really need a set of Berringer brakes on that beeyatch. Then you can sell me your old bits for my Rotax.
Ken
Die young as late as possible, remember who you were before the world told you how it should be. -- Barry Morris
Die young as late as possible, remember who you were before the world told you how it should be. -- Barry Morris
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Roadracer_Al
Re: Headlight
That's what we call a JOKE, Kyler.
If I were replacing them with anything, I'd score a set off a modern Honda MX bike and call it good.
You didn't answer the question about rebuilding. Have you put new seals in it yet?
If I were replacing them with anything, I'd score a set off a modern Honda MX bike and call it good.
You didn't answer the question about rebuilding. Have you put new seals in it yet?
Re: Headlight
Humor!Roadracer_Al wrote:That's what we call a JOKE, Kyler.
no - the bike is an '07, why would the brakes need rebuilding so soon?Roadracer_Al wrote: If I were replacing them with anything, I'd score a set off a modern Honda MX bike and call it good.
You didn't answer the question about rebuilding. Have you put new seals in it yet?
Ken
Die young as late as possible, remember who you were before the world told you how it should be. -- Barry Morris
Die young as late as possible, remember who you were before the world told you how it should be. -- Barry Morris
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Roadracer_Al
Re: Headlight
Because sometimes bad things happen to good brakes.
People often overlook that hydraulic seals are a consumable, just on a longer time frame.
People often overlook that hydraulic seals are a consumable, just on a longer time frame.
