Wasp eStart

[Rut Row]

So, many of you know about the frustration Bucho and I go through to start the Wasp. The issue is that the frame member for the sidecar attaches to the bike right in the middle of the kick starter path. In other words, you cannot get a full stroke on the kick starter.

So after doing mucho research (but apparently not enough research) I made a remote starter. The concept is to spin the stator bolt which is easy to get at -- and it is a dry stator so I won't have to worry about lost oil, etc. Plus since the starter was only 10#, I could take it along with us on the Wasp.

I found this motor at DB Electrical. Allegedly "This is the most powerful of the Super Torque Racing Starter Series."

3 horsepower- 4:1 gear reduction
Will easily crank up to 15:1 Compression Engines

Fits virtually all small and big block Chevy engines including 305, 350, 454 CID prior to 1999 Gen III.

Most Small and Big Block Chevy engines have 3 starter mounting holes drilled in the block from the factory. The MT200 is mounted using the 2 mounting holes closest to the flywheel.

Features 4 mounting holes allowing use on the 153 or 168 tooth flywheels!

Compact gear reduction starter design for easy installation.
Weighs only 11.2 pounds - much lighter than your stock starter
2.5 times more torque than your original equipment starter
The high torque gear reduction solution to your hot starting problems.

Gear reduction design generates a powerful 185 ft. lbs. of torque.
Will easily start 15:1 high compression Chevy engines.
Mounting block will adjust to give header clearance.
High torque, high performance gear reduction design for maximum power.
Superior gear reduction high torque quality.

I got a set of bicycle handlebars & shorty grips (on sale for $30), a set of 7/8" billet bar clamps (used - $15) and a momentary on switch ($5). I also found a YUASA motorcycle jumper cable (8 AWG). The rest of the stuff came from the junk box.







I think it came out nicely - the switch bracket could use some work but it functions.

BUT...

It won't spin the CR500. Too much compression.

So... not sure what the next step will be. I found a guy who mods CR500 heads to add a compression release. Might go that way when the farkle fund gets refreshed.

[Bucho]

I can't believe that thing will work on "big block chevys" and not start a CR500.

[Hare]

i would say the battery isnt strong enough.

[Rut Row]

i would say the battery isnt strong enough.

I tried using jumper cables made from 3 AWG welding cable and my truck battery. Still no joy.

[CapoGreg]

Remember that when it's in an automotive application, it's spinning the flywheel, which is 153 or 168 teeth, giving it a 15-20:1 reduction. You are trying to spin the stator bolt, so the only reduction is the 4:1 in the starter housing. The compression release might do the trick, or you might have to adapt another gearbox to it to give it a greater reduction ratio.

[Junior]

Thats about the same set up use to crank dragbikes. You should go on dragbike.com i`m sure they could help you out. I would think a fresh cr500 would be more like 20:1 or more. On a race motor(v8) that starter will work great b/c of the flywheel. If you took that same starter and hooked it to the center of the flywheel on the v8 it wouldn`t turn it ether. We`ve tryed. I`ll call a dragbike buddy of mine tomorrow.

[Rut Row]

I wonder if I could change the kick starter to a long lever, move it around 180 deg or so and mount it so that I could get a longer throw...

Hmmmm....

[Junior]

I wonder if I could change the kick starter to a long lever, move it around 180 deg or so and mount it so that I could get a longer throw...

Hmmmm....

What about moving the bar out of the way? I know its part of the frame but, maybe it could be repositioned?

[CapoGreg]

I would think a fresh cr500 would be more like 20:1 or more.

Junior, the CR500 is a 2 stroke, which has low compression. My guess would be a fresh engine is in the 6-7:1 range.

Ken, I don't know if this would have enough torque either, but did you think about adapting a worm-drive circular saw? You would need a 120v source to power it, but it might give you enough torque.

[Rut Row]

What about moving the bar out of the way? I know its part of the frame but, maybe it could be repositioned?

No place to move it to that wouldn't also be in the way without completely redesigning the hack frame.