Handlebars

[Skinny-J]

Do you think its enough of a difference for a noob rider (who gets tired arms) to notice?

I think this is the clue. Everyone at first tends to hold on too tight and is very tense and this is why you are getting tired arms. IMHO, more seat time and experience will fix this better than what ever set of bars you spend more money on.

SJ

[Wingfixer]

Do you think its enough of a difference for a noob rider (who gets tired arms) to notice?

I think this is the clue. Everyone at first tends to hold on too tight and is very tense and this is why you are getting tired arms. IMHO, more seat time and experience will fix this better than what ever set of bars you spend more money on.

SJ

+1

[BamBam]

I definitely need more seat time. But won't I be able to ride longer if the bar setup was more comfortable? Meaning.... would I get less hand buzz/fatigue with my noob death grip on great bars compared to my same noob death grip on cheap bars while I learn?

If its not much difference, I can keep going with what I have, making some minor tweaks. A buddy says my clutch and throttle feel heavier than they should, so I am going to lube cables. That kind of stuff. Just trying to do those little things to keep me in the seat longer, to get the seat time I need.

I really think my bars need to be taller, so that started the whole handlebar saga about how much to spend vs potential gain.

[gots_a_sol]

It's an expensive swap ($200 for the BRP fat bar mounts and then pro taper Evo bars).

What mounts are you looking at for $200? 7/8 to 1 1/8 mounts are cheap. Hell I probably have a set that you can have in a box somewhere.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/98 ... -Clamp-Kit



I think bar bend has as much to do with it as anything, but it is hard to try different bends without spending a bunch of money.

[Nobody]

I definitely need more seat time. But won't I be able to ride longer if the bar setup was more comfortable? Meaning.... would I get less hand buzz/fatigue with my noob death grip on great bars compared to my same noob death grip on cheap bars while I learn?

I think only marginally so. I bought these grips when I started and I think it's a pretty good thing. But they more likely can save from blisters than tired hands.

I really think my bars need to be taller, so that started the whole handlebar saga about how much to spend vs potential gain.

Perhaps you need bar risers instead?

[BamBam]

Gots-a-sol: The expensive fat bar combo I was talking about would be 'doing it right' - with those BRP billet mounts for $115 (they come in several heights and have the solid top connecting brace which is very good for the KDX) along with the ProTaper Evo bars $85. That would be the mack daddy setup... but does it really give the best vibration control from fat bars without a crossbar, along with beefy mounts?

I have a tusk riser spacer now under my cheap aluminum 7/8" bars, but I am tall at 6'-2" on a little jap bike. When I stand up it feels like I am going to fall over the front wheel~!

At some point I need to get a different set of taller, higher quality bars. I was just wondering when it comes time, is it worth a chunk of extra cash to go to fat bars as if they give some real extra benefit, or would high quality 7/8" bars be just as good as the quality fat bars.

[J&J]

Perhaps you need bar risers instead?

This, yes.... Rox risers are good for tall guys

[Damage Inc.]

you might want to go with cheap bars until you find the right height/bend for you. Once you have that straight then spend the money on better bars. I'm about you height and found that the Rox risers and CR high bend worked well for me on most of my bikes. The Rox are nice because they aren't to expensive and allow you to not only raise but move the bars forward or rearward a bit.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/13 ... bar-Risers
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/30 ... lebar?c=13

I found that I liked more pull back then the Kawi bend which is pretty flat..at least on my old KX. Back when I was searching for the perfect setup on my DRZ I took the stock bar(steel) and started bending them to fit my comfort zone. Then when I felt they were good I measured and purchased bars that were as close as I could find. Don't bend the on the bike though take 'em off and put them in a vise then find a length of pipe that will fit over the bar ends down past the grip/control mount area.

http://blog.jpcycles.com/how-to-measure ... andlebars/
https://www.motosport.com/blog/motocros ... ebar-guide


By the way aluminum is more rigid then steel. And arm pump is an evil bitch....
https://www.google.com/search?q=grip+ex ... 80&bih=893

Don't forget that suspension set up can have an effect on arm pump also.

[Laoch]

Or you could just buy a KTM.

[Wingfixer]

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