LED Turn Signal woes!

[DINGO]

Wondering if anyone has seen this problem before? I am putting on a dual-sport conversion kit on a CRF450X and the kit has LED turn signals and brake lights. The set-up uses an IC Relay flasher due to having LEDs. I had the whole thing wired up and working perfectly with the engine off, with the turn signals blinking slowly and steady. I then started the bike and all hell broke loose! I turned a turn signal on and they started to flash faster and faster, then just came on steady. Now, with the engine off, they are on steady all of the time too. The IC Relay got pretty hot, pretty quick when this first happend with the engine on (about 5 seconds). The relay does not get hot now, but the turn signal will only stay on steady when they are turned on (not flashing). They tail lights (LED also) seem to still work fine. I ended up using a set-up from DST (Dual Sport Technologies) out of California. From everything I saw online, they seemed to have a pretty sleek set-up. Their customer service sucks! I have left them maybe 20 phone messages and mutliple e-mails, but haven't heard a word from them. I am far from being an electrical engineer, so was hoping that maybe someone would have some insight on where to start troubleshooting this thing. Once I can get this fixed, the bike is ready for plates!

[Roadracer_Al]

I don't even play an electrician on TV, so take my advice for what it's worth:

Sounds like you pinched a wire somewhere, probably under a bolt or nut, so look at the signals themselves. If a wire is pinched hard enough it will squish out the insulation, causing a slight short. When that circuit is activated, it will heat up at that small short, sometimes enough to melt the insulation and create a full-on short.

[Hare]

It may that you didnt have the regulator/rectifier wired in correct to control staor output and fried and stuck the flasher relay. I would bet it may be a common parts matched up close enough at an auto parts store.

I would check over the wiring to make sure its regulated somehow and even have a gauge or multimeter to show voltage next time you fire it up so you dont melt wires etc.

[Granville]

Yep, is what I was thinking too.

It may that you didnt have the regulator/rectifier wired in correct to control staor output and fried and stuck the flasher relay. I would bet it may be a common parts matched up close enough at an auto parts store.

I would check over the wiring to make sure its regulated somehow and even have a gauge or multimeter to show voltage next time you fire it up so you dont melt wires etc.

If this is not the fix, I have a buddy near Ashton that I wrench with when I need Prof. help. I should be there in the next week or two and have him replace the springs/seals in my sons forks. He will need a little $ for his time. Just don't be the guy that has been ripping-up the power lines along 108.

[DINGO]

Thanks for the direction so far. I am going to spend some time on it tomorrow night and start checking for pinched wires and such. I'm gonna head over a Napa Auto and see if they have an IC Relay that I can get. I'm not sure if all of these IC Flasher Relays are the same though.

If I can't get this thing figured out, I may be asking for that help here in the Ashton area. I really want to get this project done and get the plates for the bike. I've been tinkering on these mods (many of them) for 3 months now and want to get the thing dirty again. Also need to clean and adjust the FCR carb on this bike, but man does thing intimitade me when I look at it. I'll rebuild forks or anything all day long, but screwing with carbs has always been the grey area for me.

[DINGO]

Found the problem! DST (Dual Sport Technologies) completely goofed the wiring harness for their dual sport kit. They have the harness plugging into the headlight jack to get it's power. Sounds like a good idea, except that this is the one set of lines that is using AC voltage, not DC voltage! Once this harness is plugged in, it then has the LED turn signals, horn, tail/brake light, and license plate light all running on AC voltage when the bike is running (DC when the bike is off). I stripped and re-worked the harness so that has it's own DC line that is controlled by the key-switch (also added an in-line fuse). The headlight is seperate and still controlled by the handlebar switches (low/high beam). All I can say is, stay VERY far away from DST.

On a better note, I called Mike at Baja Designs and he actually helped me find this problem just by discussing it with him. He immediately knew there was something wrong when I explained how they were getting their power and also that it was looping AC directly back to the battery. Becasue of DST, I fried two IC Relays and a license plate light. The people at WheelingCycleSupply have all these DRC electronics parts in stock and said they would have replacement parts here in two days, no extra cost. Thanks to them also.

[Roadracer_Al]

Wow. No kidding?!

I think I'd be firing off a hostile letter to these Dildo Sport, err, Dual Sport buffoons demanding compensation for the replacement parts, or you'll slather the internet with righteous anger and factual verbiage about their retarded designs.

Strike that.

I'd cautiously compose an informative, polite letter describing what a bunch of useless skin bags their engineers ar... oh wait.

OK, do-over... a pleasant letter describing the shortcomings (no pun intended) in their product and respectfully suggest they could send a check to cover magic-smoke replacement.

[DINGO]

I think I'd be firing off a hostile letter to these Dildo Sport, err, Dual Sport buffoons demanding compensation for the replacement parts, or you'll slather the internet with righteous anger and factual verbiage about their retarded designs.

Thank Al. I think after them dicking with me for 20 weeks that I'll use your first suggestion and throw them under the bus on some of the major sites.......Here of course is #1 !