Well I go out in the garage the other day, with the intentions of pulling my suspension off the Huskey, and move the bikes around and find that the wifes bike(Suzuki Bandit) which hadn't been riden too much this year has some issues. First I've been smelling gas for a while now but with all the bikes,lawn mower stuff ect. I wasn't surprised. Now I look down under her bike and see a small stain on the floor, which seems to be oil. Upon closer inspection I find that it is oil and I'm thinking WTF. I changed the oil and drained the gas , refilled the tank with treated fuel, Lucas ethanol treatment and full tank so no rust issues. Where's the oil coming from, I look at the oil sight glass and it looks OVERFULL, WHAT!!!!!! I start to remove the oil fill cap on the clutch side and gas comes flooding out. This thing holds almost 5 gallons of gas when the tank is full, I drain the tank and find about 2 to 2.5 gallons of gas the rest of the gas is in the friggin motor.THIS IS THE 2ND DIAPHRAM OPERATED GAS VALVE THAT HAS FAILED ON THIS BIKE IN 4 YEARS. Now I know that the float valves are what is controling the amount of gas to the engine but with this gas we have now the oxidation even when the bowls are drained is enough to make a float stick, sooo when it's "stored so to speak" and the afore mentioned valve fails you know where the gas is going to end up.Long story short 5 days later after draing, flushing, fouling plugs, swollen clutch plates, going through the valve train, carburetors ect. she fired to life again last night. I have a pile of these Suzuki vacuum operated gas valves on my work bench from several bikes, including quads the problem on the wifes bike there is no place to put a mechanical valve between the carbs and tank because of the location and space. I just ordered another valve, of course you can't buy the replacement parts to rebuild the valve you have to buy the whole valve $105.00+. I guess the point I'm trying to make is IF YOU HAVE A BIKE WITH ONE OF THESE TYPE GAS VALVES 1 DO NOT HIT THAT STARTER BUTTON WITHOUT CHECKING TO MAKE SURE THAT THE GAS HASN'T DRAINED INTO THE MOTOR
(that could have catastrophic results from the hydrolock)
I drained 4 oil drain pans (the black plastic ones that hold about 1.5 gallons) full of gas and oil out of her bike
the motor got a good flushing out (the gas will "float" on top of the oil)
I'm looking for a replacement mechanical valve to fit in place of this POS the kind you just turn on when you ride and turn off when you park it
Thanks for the offer, the problem is that you can't source the rebuild kit in the states. I can order it from overseas, Europe,Uk not the USA or let me say that it is not cost effective by the time you order and pay for shipping it's more than 2/3 the cost of a new one. I have considered sealing the main valve hole and setting the selector up to operate as on or off, problem is the small gaskit in the body is the only thing that will seal this off, and it will fail. I'm going to polish out the valve body and stretch the diaphram sealing spring a little bit and see if I can reuse it. The diaphram and gaskits all seem to be ok there was just a very minor amount of oxidation in the area of the valve body, thanks to the friggin ethanol in the gas. I think I can remember having an issue with one of these type fuel valves as far back as being on an 81 GS850G Suzuki . The cost is crazy 1 small o-ring,1 larger o-ring about 7/8",1 tiny spring,1 gaskit (selector lever) and the tiny diaphram which operates the valve( about the size of the fuel pump in your chainsaw or weed wacker) $40 plus shipping from overseas. 
Of course the alternative $115 from the local dealer for the new valve.
Holeshot performance out in Arizona who does everything Bandit has gone to the trouble of finding the correct rebuild parts , and sells the kits for $38 . I ordered 2 of them and will have them in/on the bike by weeks end . I knew if I went to maximum suzuki someone on there would have found an alternative to just buying a replacement fuel valve every few years . 
