Primary Sprocket Spring Washer

[Rut Row]

So, I had a learning opportunity today. Not long ago I replaced the primary sprocket (chain and rear sprocket) on the KTM. Every since then I have had a lot of oil fling and gease buildup around the primary sprocket. I had assumed that I had over oiled the chain. I washed it all off and waiting until the next ride (yesterday).

More splooge had built up and there was a lot of oil fling. The chain even looked wet.

So I removed the rear wheel (needed to replace bearings anyway) and popped the primary sprocket. Everything looked fine. So I replaced the bearings and reinstalled the primary sprocket. It fit loose and slide back and forth. Me not likee that, so off to Google.

In an obscure post, I find reference to a KTM requirement to replace the bolt and spring washer every time you replace the sprocket. Apparently the spring washer holds the sprocket against the grease seal. Duh ...

Now to wait for JT to reopen and get a spring washer.

This is something they should have put in the owner's manual.

[Bucho]

Thats good to know. Is that for all KTM's or just certain models?

[restukey]

I would consider it is the countershaft seal and not the spring washer?

[Rut Row]

I would consider it is the countershaft seal and not the spring washer?

I thought about that. After much further reading on KTMTalk, this is a common problem (took me a while to figure out the right search terms).

[Wingfixer]

High performance = bigger pain in the a$$. <--- Dollar signs intentional.

[Skinny-J]

Where's B-dirt when you need him; I don't think Honda's have this "feature".....

[Rut Row]

Where's B-dirt when you need him; I don't think Honda's have this "feature".....

ya - gotta love the undocumented design features

[waserman]

Hi Ken you may want to replace the o-ring spacer and seal,because the spacer usually gets 2 grooves worn in it from the seal lips and if your going in there you may as well replace all three parts.The KTMS both 2&4 st seem to wear these parts out if you are riding in muddy/sandy conditions(South Jersey,Delaware,ect. if muddy for the enduro or hare scrambles,or trail riding just about guaranteed after an event if it packs around the output shaft).The other thing you may have read/heard is that some aftermarket sprockets are not exactley the same width as the stock KTM sprockets,so that minute amount is enough to let oil by the o-ring and migrate through the splined output shaft to oil your chain and everything else that it can fling out onto,including you if it gets bad enough.I used to wait until I would get a small amount puddled up after parking on the kickstand before I replaced them,but they are a wear item.Along those lines the seals in the rear master brake cylinder are also a wear item and need to be replaced about every 15-20 hours.You will gradually lose the rear brake and not be able to keep the wheel locked when brake sliding.Both are easy jobs as long as the bike is clean,I've replaced the seals in a parking lot in about 15 minutes on the counter shaft,the rear master I just carried a spare with a fresh rebuild.They semed to last longer if the fluid was replaced a couple times a season.I was hoping to get to the Durty Dabbers for both days but forgot I'll be in Rhode Island for a graduation,which my wife promptly reminded me when she saw the flyer on my desk.I'm looking forward to riding with you guys at some point this year.

[Rut Row]

Hi Ken you may want to replace the o-ring spacer and seal,because the spacer usually gets 2 grooves worn in it from the seal lips and if your going in there you may as well replace all three parts.

thanks! and just because those parts are cheap, I'm going to go ahead and replace them.