seventeens on the Husky!

[Grady]

Finally got some 17" wheels. I was able to find a used set from an 02' which have cush drive hubs. Fitted them on the bike today and everything seems to fit perfect. The only thing I still have to do is figure out the gearing, and order a rear sprocket. I have a spare 15 front sprocket, I currently use a 13/50 setup for dirt. The wheels came with a 45, which was too small to use the same chain with the 15 up front. I did have an aluminum 49 which I put on for now just to try them out, but the gearing still seems too short. I think a 47 or 48 would be best. I'm trying to keep things as simple as possible to swap. It was raining here this evening, so I only got to take it around the neighborhood. Hopefully tomorrows weather will be better and I'll be able to go for a little ride after work and really try them out.

[Bucho]

Alright, now you are ready for some motard thrashes.

[Rut Row]

I thought the title read "seven teens on a Husky" and thought what a stud!

Looking good! I guess I'll have to used to seeing Husky tail feathers as well on the DAMN rides.

[Grady]

I finally took the 610 for a ride today with the new wheels. Wow, what a difference. Feels like a whole different bike. The only issue I had was the steering seems to be sticking. I noticed the problem prior to the wheel swap, so I know its unrelated. It seems that occasionally when I go to turn the bars its tight for a second, then with a little more pressure it's loose. Could this be a bearing problem. It doesn't do it all the time, but it's occurring more frequently, and it scares the crap out of me when I need to turn. It's not as if it's just stiff all the way through the motion, it just seems to stick in the straight position. It brakes free once you turn but then it turns too sharp because of the extra force it took to start the turn. Anybody have any ideas on where to start?

[mdubya]

Steering head bearing would be a good place to start. Check out the suspension action while you are at it. Steering head bearing will probably be the cure, though.

[Roadracer_Al]

Looks nice! I think you'll find that it's an agreeable street ride.

Check for cables, hoses, wiring hooking on stuff.

[Grady]

Thanks for the help guys. I pulled apart the front end after work today and found that the lower steering bearings were completely thrashed. They were loose and rusty, no signs of grease anywhere. Being as I am to impatient to wait for parts, I just swapped the lower triple clamp, rod, and bearings with a spare set I had that seemed to have decent bearings. I'm sure this wasn't the best option, but at least the bikes not out of commission. I still plan on replacing both bearings, I'll just have to order them. Also, my fork seals keep weeping. I think it may be time to replace them also when I do the steering bearings. I've cleaned the seals with a feeler gage, but they still leak. Any advice on replacing fork seals. I've never done them before, and have no idea whats involved. I've heard some say it was easy and others say it was worth it to pay someone else to do them. Since the local shop wants $95 a leg plus parts, I think I'll be doing this one on my own since I cant afford that. Just wanted to know what kind of time I'm looking at to replace them, and if I need any special tools.

[Rut Row]

Any advice on replacing fork seals. I've never done them before, and have no idea whats involved. I've heard some say it was easy and others say it was worth it to pay someone else to do them. Since the local shop wants $95 a leg plus parts, I think I'll be doing this one on my own since I cant afford that. Just wanted to know what kind of time I'm looking at to replace them, and if I need any special tools.

Racer Al has the slickest fork spring compression tool around - he'll probably loan it to you.

[Roadracer_Al]

The fork spring compressor tool is for "upside down" forks, Grady has "right side up" forks, which come apart by removing the fork cap.

Here's my secret for removing fork seals: remove the wire clip, remove the cap, remove the fork spring, fill the forks with any old oil, reinstall the fork cap, then use an arbor press (OK, I use my floor-model drill press) to hydraulically push out the seals. Makes a horrid mess if you forget to wrap a rag/plastic bag around the fork leg, and you need to flush the forks well before filling with new oil. The upside is that you never put a sharp object into your forks, and it's almost zero effort.

Replacing the bottom race of the steering head bearings is just plain and simple a beeeeyatch. There is no truly easy way of doing the job, especially in an ordinary home shop with common hand tools. The best method I've found is to use a Dremel tool with an abrasive wheel to cut opposite sides of the race -- you want to have the wheel in the same plane as the race, and eat away a cylindrical "bite" out of the race without damaging the stem.

Don't try to notch it with the edge of the wheel - you can't cut the bottom corner of race without damaging the stem or the clamp.

Next time I do lower steering head race replacement, I think I'm going to turn a precision clamp on the lathe, and press the whole stem out.